The exile of a wit.
Reworked in the 16th and 17th centuries on medieval foundations, the château owes its fame to Roger de Rabutin, Count of Bussy (1618–1693), a brilliant soldier, academician and cousin of Madame de Sévigné. A wit with too sharp a pen, in 1665 he published the Histoire amoureuse des Gaules, a satire of the manners of the court.
An offended Louis XIV had him imprisoned in the Bastille for a year, then exiled him for good to his Burgundian estates. Bussy would spend the last twenty-seven years of his life there, turning his château into a decorative manifesto — at once an ironic homage and a settling of scores with Versailles.
Five hundred portraits, as many barbs.
The interiors are painted throughout. The gallery of the kings of France, the gallery of men of war and the gallery of family portraits gather close to five hundred effigies, often paired with biting captions. The cabinet des devises, the centrepiece, unfolds emblems and maxims — some of them cruel — aimed at his contemporaries.
In his bedchamber, Bussy had himself portrayed surrounded by twenty-five ladies of the court — queens and royal favourites alike. The gilded tower casts him as a Roman emperor among his mistresses. Outside, the formal French gardens attributed to the school of Le Nôtre, the ornamental pools and the vista over the valley round off the visit.
Bussy-Rabutin is not just another château-museum: it is the private diary of a man who never got over his banishment. Every portrait, every motto is a letter addressed to a court that had forgotten him.
The mottoes of the bedchamber.
Beneath the bedchamber windows, two mottoes evoke the Marquise de Montglas, the mistress who abandoned Bussy in his disgrace: "She flees the bad weather" and "She lures only to ruin".
All the wounded tenderness of the exile is held in these few painted words. Pause here for a moment: this is where Bussy gives up, without a cry, the sorrow of a forgotten courtier.
Maison Jazey, your base for visiting Bussy-Rabutin
A 15-minute drive from the château, in the very heart of the medieval town of Semur-en-Auxois, Maison Jazey offers two spacious apartments in its hôtel particulier, a private mansion. Secure parking included, a concierge to book your visit, a refined breakfast before you set off.
Book direct and you enjoy the best rate guaranteed and a personal welcome — Bussy pairs perfectly with Fontenay or Flavigny to make up a day along the Route des Ducs.
See our roomsVisiting the Château de Bussy-Rabutin: opening times, prices and access.
- Address
- 12 Rue du Château
21150 Bussy-le-Grand - From Maison Jazey
- 15 km · 15 min
via the D954 then the D954B - Opening
- All year round except 1 January, 1 May and 25 December
Hours vary by season, see the official website - Suggested duration
- 1½ to 2 hours
- Prices
- Full price €9
Free for EU under-26s - Online tickets
- tickets.monuments-nationaux.fr
- Official website
- chateau-bussy-rabutin.fr
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